Roof Replacement, Layer by Layer

The Roof System, From the Deck Up

Tear-off and decking

We remove the old roofing down to the deck. Laying new shingles over old ones hides rot, traps heat and adds weight, and it limits what you can do next time. With the deck exposed we look for soft, delaminated or water-stained sheathing and replace it before anything goes on top.

Drip edge

Metal drip edge goes along the eaves and rakes. It supports the shingle edge, keeps wind from lifting it, and directs water into the gutter instead of behind the fascia.

Ice & water shield at the eaves

Our winters bring snow, then sun, then a hard freeze at night. Snow melting on the warm part of the roof refreezes at the cold overhang and backs water up under the shingles. A self-adhering ice barrier membrane along the eaves, carried up past the inside of the exterior wall, seals around nails so that backed-up water can’t get in. We also run it in valleys and around chimneys and skylights.

Underlayment

The rest of the deck gets a synthetic underlayment, a secondary water barrier that also protects the deck if the roof is open when weather moves in.

Starter, shingles and nailing

Starter strips at the eaves and rakes put a sealant line under the first course so wind can’t get a grip on the edge. Shingles are nailed in the manufacturer’s nailing zone, using the high-wind nailing pattern where the specs call for it. A nail that’s too high, too low or overdriven is how shingles end up in the neighbor’s yard.

Flashing and ventilation

New step flashing at walls, new pipe boots, and properly lapped valley and chimney flashing. Then we balance intake at the soffits with exhaust at the ridge. A well-ventilated attic runs cooler in summer, stays drier in winter and helps the shingles last.